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Cross-Dressing & Gender Performance in Burlesque
Burlesque
performers also literally usurped male power by taking on male roles
onstage. While they might play male roles or dress up in
masculine garments, however, female burlesque performers were never
trying to present a convincing, realistic portrayal of a man
onstage. Instead, they were utilizing their masculine attire as a
sort of fetish object, in fact emphasizing their feminine sexuality by
contrasting it with markers of masculinity. Kirsten Pullen, in
her book Actresses and Whores,
discusses Lydia Thompson’s practice of cross-dressed performance,
saying that “Thompson talked like a man but walked like a
woman,” effectively using “male clothing and attitudes not
to impersonate men but to underscore her femininity” (95).
These practices, of course, ultimately emphasized the constructed
nature of both genders, calling into question accepted gender roles
themselves.
One
figure often cited in the burlesque history books as an important
progenitress of cross-dressing performers is actress Adah Isaacs
Menken. Many actresses who played male roles would seek to
reassure their public by conducting themselves with extreme feminine
propriety in their personal lives, but Menken instead chose to embrace
the controversy stirred by her performance of male roles and
purposefully, as Rachel Shteir puts it in her book Striptease: The Untold History of the Girlie Show, “exploited her androgynous appeal” (26). Menken’s most notorious performance came in 1863, in a
lavish production of Mazeppa. Menken, in the role of the titular
hero, took a daredevil ride across the stage, strapped to the back of a
horse and wearing a form-fitting body stocking which showed off her
distinctly feminine shape. Menken loudly defended her onstage
near-nudity as an integral part of her theatrical art, inspiring many
of the burlesque performers who followed after her.
Female
burlesque performers may not have been trying to precisely imitate men
when they took on male roles, but they were still in some ways
appropriating the male voice. “Taking on the markers of
masculinity,” Robert Allen explains, “the burlesque
performer was licensed to act in a very unladylike fashion”
(148). The effect of such “unladylike” conduct was
evidently somewhat disturbing, leading William Dean Howells to deem
such performers neither men nor women but “creatures of an alien
sex, parodying both” (qtd. in Allen 25). The female
burlesque performer might not successfully become another sex –
nor was she attempting to – but she was able to transcend the
social boundaries of her own gender, and therefore to say and do things
of which so many other women would not dare to dream.
Click images to view larger versions.

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Performer Edna May dresses in
boyish attire, but her feminine
curves remain quite evident
Original size: 11.5”x16”
From the book Art Album of
Footlight Favorites, part of the
Charles H. McCaghy Collection. |
Burlesque performer – and
head of her own company –
Lillian Washburn in military attire
Original size: 11.5”x16”
From the book Art Album of
Footlight Favorites, part of the
Charles H. McCaghy Collection. |

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Performer Jessie Bartlett-Davis
in classical costume
Cabinet card. Original size: 4.25”x6.5”
Part of the Charles H. McCaghy Collection. |
Victorian postcard depicting
Adah Isaacs Menken’s
famous ride in Mazeppa
Postcard. Original size: 6.5”x4”
Part of the Charles H. McCaghy Collection. |

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Comedienne Verona Jarbeau
dressed in masculine costume,
and carrying a big stick
Cabinet card. Original size: 4.25”x6.6”
Part of the Charles H. McCaghy Collection. |
Another form of cross-dressing?
Cabinet card. Original size: 4.25”x6.5”
Part of the Charles H. McCaghy Collection. |

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